Despite my initial reservations about having to share a bathroom and corridor with 6 other rooms, I slept very well in Glacier World’s comfy bed. Twas only on the way to breakfast that we realised that there were actually two loos, but as the door wasn’t marked, we’d thought one was a cupboard. That’ll encourage us to be more nosy in future.

Unfortunately there wasn’t much gluten free choice at breakfast beyond the usual ham, egg and sliced cheese, but the view of Hoffellsjökull made up for it. There were surprisingly more people than we’d expected to see at breakfast too, and the owner said later on that they were now getting as many visitors in the Spring as they do in the Summer. The prices are certainly much cheaper out of season, and most of Iceland (bar the interior) is still accessible.

After saying goodbye to the farm dog, a very gentle border collie, we set off West. Even in the space of the two weeks that we’d been in the East of Iceland, a lot of the snow on the peaks had melted, and big bergs had calved off Vatnajökull into Jökulsárlón – making it look much more impressive than it had on the way out, before the Spring thaw. The best views, in our opinion, are to be had on the other side of the main road where the bergs float out to sea. It’s easy to see why photographers from all over the world travel here to capture images of the beached bergs.

We’d planned on stopping off at the Vatnajökull Visitor Centre and walking up to Svartifoss, but the crowds put us off so instead we headed to the village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur to refuel, and sample the local swimming baths. Sure enough, we had the place to ourselves, despite the village being sited so close to Route 1, the baths having a whirlpool jet hotpot, and a view of the Systrafoss waterfall. After alternating between the hotpot and baby pool for an hour, Rich then drove the final stretch to Hrifunes Guesthouse, our stop for the night. As we loved the guesthouse so much, it’ll be the star feature of the next blog. But as a little tidbit, I will tell you now that they don’t have pet dogs or cats at Hrifunes, they have affectionate free roaming bunnies instead…